Cleat position forward or back reddit Depending on how far you actually moved your cleats, and what your saddle height was like to start with you may not need to do anything. Fore-aft Dec 3, 2007 路 A few years ago, I put new cleats on my shoes and moved the position one notch (can't remember if it was back or forward). Turns out due to the shorter left leg I was basically putti Looking for advice or videos that discuss how I should position my cleats on my Peloton shoes. I would like to know what is the best cleat position for like all rounder cyclist? Go all the way back or forward? My cleats were pointed too straight forward. So riders who want to go for long and/or steady state efforts will tend to push the cleats back, remove calf engagement/fatigue from the equation. Just wondering if anyone has experienced foot pain during/after riding clipless. This continued for several months until I finally made the connection with the change in cleat position. The shoe needs to point out wards to match my natural foot position. Since the cleat position has a direct effect on what the fore aft of the saddle will be, the first step is to ensure your cleats are in the correct position. The only ones that solve the problem are where my feet sit right at the limit of the float. At least that was the old fashioned way from way back when. Had a pair of Adidas that were provided by my team in maybe 2004 that had the clear position way further forward on the toe box than the Sidis I’d rode for years. Just got the specialized recon shoe and the cleat holes are no where near the same position. I also needed some shims inside my shoe. Thanks for the tip. I've Been Suffering For 10 Years - YouTube) and Hogg (see POWER TO THE PEDAL - CLEAT POSITION - The Steve Hogg Bike Fitting Team - I'm at the 45/46 shoe size, Hogg recommends 12 mm back from ball of foot). Also yes It’s very common when using this method to have the cleats quite far back; that’s fine. I have no idea. In theory, the reason to use 0 or fixed position is if you’re a racing and want max efficiency. On my bikes I've moved the cleats as far back as possible and noticed a comfort improvement immediately and I've experimented with mounting SPD cleats further back on tennis shoes and crocs for touring. Left foot slightly larger, left leg miniscule shorter. It's not a good idea to have the cleat ahead of the ball of your foot, but I personally don't like it back toward the arch of my foot either. Is it the same or any difference any help is really appreciated. I’ve been riding for the past year or so and realized that my cleats are a bit far forward compared to what I read from most recommendations. Mark it on the shoe and position cleat accordingly. Make small adjustments to get it where the cleat feels in between its release points (not up against one or the other) with your foot in a natural position. r/DIY. Try searching YouTube for "bike fit cleat position" you'll find tons of good videos for advice. I used to have to experiment more with cleat position/rotation and seat height but not for a long time, even after putting in new cleats. This is on a gravel bike with lots of stack height, the saddle pointed up at 1. People are not symmetrical so it is most likely they will need to be in a slightly different position on each shoe. To try and make sure you fall firmly outside the pain crowd, we’re going to give you a comprehensive guide you can follow to optimize your cycling cleat positioning. Worst shoes ever and that cleats position was horrible. Further backward is fine if you prefer that. Far forward, far back, different angles, all the way inboard/outboard. But the cleats i bought include a round button-like thing in the middle. Because otherwise you'll be applying the same forces that would cause your foot position to rotate except the cleat will now be preventing that motion which will most likely be taken up as torsional load in your knee and ankle joints. Too much float can lead to some knee pain. My question: Where do ya'll have your cleats? 馃 The importance of cleat position The bicycle connects to your body through three contact points – the pelvis, hands and most importantly, the feet. However, there is no such thing as a free lunch – rearward cleat positioning results in less ability to rapidly accelerate as the calf is recruited to assist the rest of the kinetic chain during such hard efforts. Finally, adjust the rotation of the cleat so your ankle doesn't come too close to the chainstays. Move it so your toes point out more. When in position . I didn’t appear to need any tilt shims. When in position l (see picture), the "button" sticks out but the cleats are flat against the shoe. I need to adjust them to the ball of my foot (and same position on each, at a minimum). Every shop I've been to just "puts the cleat in a neutral position". Also make sure the cleat bolts are tight. Saddle position / cleat position is about balancing your weight, get it wrong Moving your cleats back has the same effect as increasing your saddle height, saddle forward and down have the effect of reducing saddle height. Move the cleat closer medially. If you're a strong rider, you can put it forward without much At the moment, the cleats are pulled pretty far back, which is how I've always been set up. Make sure your saddle height is set to the correct height. One valuable fit feature you get with black cleats is that you have the ideal angular mark for your shoes for floating cleats if you decide to switch. You may also need to move cleats forward a little. After lowering my saddle by 15mm, which feels better in terms of not having to extend my leg so much this is my current situation. I like it but not a fan of cutting up a shoe and attaching the cleats. I have this problem. I couldn’t make any real power either, so riding on flat pedals confirmed I needed the cleat/pedal axle further forward than the usual position aft of the metatarsal. After moving my cleats back I have noticed more stability in the foot/ankle. g. If you get knee pain, visit a cycling shop and have them help setup/ do a fit. e moving cleats forward moves your feet back and ends up you need the saddle further back and vice-versa. Q&A or info about anything related to bike fit. But my 5th metatarsal is way behind the line on the cleat and also the cleat hole. I still had to adjust the cleats heel-in, but no knee pain (forefoot pain came back though). Hi together, thanks to this community I have around 300+ rides on my todo-list and daily growing. any issue with a 16mm spacer and pushing the cleat position closer to the crank vice just pushing the cleats further out? Adjusting the cleats to the middle of the with the spacers feels like I’m only peddling with the inside of my feet. Posted by u/Heist20 - 1 vote and no comments Once the cleat placement was changed to accommodate my foot (metatarsal bones), the difference was brilliant. But either way; Why don’t you install the cleat on the shoe; Clip it into each pedal and mark the spindle position on the cleat on either side. The less range needed the better in my experience in cycling. in addition to playing with the cleats to reduce hip angle make sure they are even. I use the Shimano yellow cleats (a generous 6° of float) and haven't had issues; I'm actually considering replacing them with blue (2° float) when these wear out. If OP's optimal/preferred cleat position is far back, let's trust it's that way for a reason. Since my inside left knee is hurting, I put the cleats m Am I correct I'm assuming you want the cleat all the way back to save your quads? Also do you want your feet directly straight orshouldthey be pointed out just a bit, because with all my cleats and shoes it seems like I have to fight if I want the get my feet completely facing forward I need my cleats about 15-20mm further back than most shoes allow due to my odd foot shape. The cleats should not necessarily be in the same place on each shoe. This occurred with a worn cleat (the original SM-SH51 pair) and is now occurring with the replacement SM-SH51 pair that I just bought. Really bad idea. While not everyone likes zero float cleats, maybe use them to help set up your position on the shoes. Thanks, I did see a couple of pointers about that, but for my first ride just kinda went with a 'default' position. Is there any way to easily find the… It seems like you're saying that your cleat position is making your knee hurt, which may not be the cause. The second pair (Shimano RPD's) were road design and it felt like the cleat was further back than I wanted and couldn't adjust it far enough forward. I generally do have my cleats either as far back as they'll go, or very close to it, but the cleat is still very much under the ball of the foot. Compared to where I was, my cleats are about a cm further foreward (foot back), saddle is roughly 5 mm further forward into a quite forward position, cleat location "Q" - distance from CL of the bike - is close to 3 mm different from left to right, heels clear stays the same on each side, and I feel very well balanced, easy spinning. I'm currently at the more usual position of the middle of the SPD adjustment range, cleats about 5 mm back from the metatarsal line. I learned a lot about why I’m likely suffering from pain in the back of my knee and made some adjustments (cleats were too far forward, saddle too high). In most cases, you won't need to move them and only need to do so if you can't get your cleats in the right position with the threads where they are here. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Uneven cleat positions, normal? Related Cycling Sports Amateur sport forward back. When they do the initial seat height check, do both heels not just the dominant leg. The conclusion I came to, however, was that modern approach is cleat back by default, whereas "under the ball" is an old view, that has been challenged in recent years (basically cleat forward is racing and climbing setup, while cleat back is good for endurance riding - as a starting point. Yep, so far back that you might need to nudge the cleat forward a bit depending on your position preference Compared to the Shimano AM9 and Crank Brothers Mallet Shoes I have, the leatts have the furtherst rearward cleat position So, calves become a weak link in endurance riding. (Especially true if you're also a runner) Ride on a paved road or bike path to check the feeling of the cleat position and to practice locking/unlocking the pedals. In experimenting with different fore-aft adjustments on the many different bikes that I have owned and raced, fore-aft adjustments can influence pedal stroke and fluidity. Some aren't. Start position for fore-aft cleat position is to have the pedal spindle intersect the line between the bump at the base of the big toe and the widest point or the outside of the foot, in the center of the shoe. Have gotten myself quite in a tizzy over modern thinking on cleat position. But make sure that your center of gravity doesn’t go too far forward of your bb, else move the cleats a little forward if you find yourself in that situation Where we can enjoy, discuss, and promote getting laced up! The infamous corset is a torso-reshaping garment with laces and boning. I put my cleat at the ball of my foot and give myself about 5mm between the crankarm and the side of the shoe. 25w/kg. I adjusted the cleat backward and that seemed to fix it, only today the numbness was back. Best practice is to position the cleat so the ball of your foot it on or slightly ahead of the pedal spindle. Don't forget changing one cleat will impact the other, and moving them too much at once even if correctly just feels too weird I find. ;) Unfortunately I have some knee issues lately and I read that the cleat position should be changed based on inside or outside pain. Unless your ankle is rotating back and forth considerably while pedaling, cranking up the tension/reducing float is not a good way to solve this issue. The cleat is as far forward as the shoe allows but still feels like it's putting pressure on a nerve. This would be better for long rides. Option 1: keep playing with the position, pull them all the way back and then micro adjust forward until you find the right spot. Tri shoes generally have one huge enclosure so you don't get the fit variance you do on most road shoes. After a quick google, apparently one of the culprits of knee pain when cycling clipped is due to the cleat position on the shoe, and that it may need adjusting. 1. The fitter moved my saddle up and forward 2cm (back pain) and narrowed my stance by moving the cleats outwards. If you can’t tell which, change one, go for hour or two ride, then you’ll know if you did it or need to try other option But I would first compare the position of the left clear with the right one and mirror the adjustment as good as possible. Put your shoes on. 5*. ) Pedal for a few minutes. My cleats are all the way back, saddle is pretty far forward (10mm to spare), there might be 10cm of bar drop from the saddle. There's also a tradeoff here. I wear my giro sentrie techlaces for basically anything over 20km now. Since the changes I made were small, I'd wait to draw conclusions until after I rode at least 20 miles in the "new position. I’m suspicious that this is a saddle height issue or cleat fore-aft issue. I have asymmetrical sit bones which I have found to be an issue with some saddle shapes. So I can’t align it to my 1st and to be able to put it on. The first was a pair that was more mountain bike -like and I liked the position of the cleat on those. I’d want a side angle and back angle video of you riding on a trainer, I’d also want your view looking straight down at your feet when they’re at neutral angle (ie. ) your cleat is rotated inward too much. Thirded on the soccer cleats. I tried pushing up on cleat holes but nothing Been a daily rider for two years with the old shoes. If you ride too far with a bad position it could cause chronic discomfort. First, I don’t suggest using MTB cleats/pedals on a road bike. One thing I’m just now questioning is. Re-attach and screw down tight. However, I also noticed a significant decrease in power/speed on my rides. The custom shoes that have the cleat midsole are too expensive for me. Plenty of miles in the legs. It usually requires an extender plate or something. My cleats are in the same position as my rode bike but my seat is placed further up on it as well, and I don’t experience pain on my road bike. Maybe the shoe's I bought suck, maybe the bike is misadjuted, maybe I set the cleat position wrong. I have larger feet and I have mine almost as forward as possible. I do. personally, if I had difficulty I used Tippex fluid to mark around the cleat so I knew exactly where to put it back. When I was unbalanced I noticed my right leg/knee would hurt in long rides/hard efforts. Hi everyone any advice on setting cleat position for a cycle cross shoes. Oh, and set your saddle level, don't make it tilt forward or back. My saddle position in relation to the bottom bracket is much higher on the Peloton than my road bikes. Just try googling a bit and you’ll find tables which will help you positioning cleats in a safe way. Possibly, though I've tried a few different positions now. You can do this without a fitter but may want to consult one just to be sure you get it right. I've been using clipless pedals for decades and haven't really ever experienced knee pain. Youtube pundits, including some rather knowledgeable fitters, would have me put the cleats from as far back as possible to having the ball of my foot over the spindle. It also depends on the individual, from photos and threads I've seen - one person's normal position is another person's extreme-pelvic-tilt position. Adding more float will only solve your problem if it adds so much more that it makes the current cleat positioning tolerable. Which is why I’m being the cleats in. Cleat drilling in the shoes were too far forward (honestly, they only within maybe the past 10 ish yrs have begun addressing this industry-widedrillings are further back), so a lot of people couldn't get their cleats back far enough. I’ve fixed a problem with a hot spot on my foot by moving the cleat to point my toe further in slightly, but if you’ve tried moving the cleat through its full range, it may be time to accept there’s something else going on that blogs and youtube videos can’t help with. This felt great in the bike fit session - more power, no pain - and felt good for a few short/easy rides. This^ your shoes and the cleats aren’t intended for each other and first step On a tile floor or other smooth surface your gonna eat shit personally run shimano p432 or whatever the silver double sided platform clipless pedals on my $4k gravel Bike and my $800 mtn bike using the pearl Izumi hybrid spd shoe like $80ish bucks the combo works great and shoe style works for both types of bikes I've been using Shimano PD-M520 pedals for about 3000 miles, and the left pedal (my more frequent clip-out) floats front-to-back instead of just side-to-side. I don’t really know what the numbers on the bottom of the shoe mean and if my cleats should be more forward or back on the shoe. If you want to go ahead yourself I'd measure with a good ruler where they are now forward and sidewards position ( from two datum points each) then change by 1mm at a time. The history of corsets goes back centuries, and the practice of lacing goes back millennia. hope that helps the further rearward the cleat position, the less the calf is utilised for foot stability on the pedal. My bike fitter just put shims/stackers on one of my shoes. Also be aware that as you move the cleat forward and back you can change the effective position of your saddle fore/aft. You don't want to address saddle issues by changing your cleat position. I hope it makes some kind of sense. I am using the 1st and the 5th metatarsal joints measurement method. Play with the Q factor, you may have them too far in, pushing your knee into a position that’s not good for it (or vice versa, cleat is too far out pushing the knee to far inwards) I wear size 45/46 (11) cycling shoes. i. 2. Still squeeking? Cleat sticking out is normal, I would though go a bit back with the position, currently they're all the way forward, most of the bile fitters suggest to start all the way back and work yourself forward. I'm not new to the sport, and have an FTP around 4. Aug 22, 2024 路 Mark the 1st metatarsal head and 5th metatarsal head (the bump on the inside and outside of the foot) on the side of the shoe; Draw a line across the sole of the shoe between these two marks Aug 2, 2022 路 The cleats were pretty much as far forward as they'd go, while their original positions have been both marked and photographed so getting them back to where they were is no big deal Wooger said: There's no reason to think that your cleat needs to be on the ball of your foot, the whole point of cycling shoes is to be stiff, provide a comfortable Leave the cleat bolts a titch loose (snug, but not fully tight. Cleat fitting is the most important aspect as that sets your foot, knee and leg position. Used them myself after having regular football cleats for years and they blew them out of the water. push the cleat as far down (towards your heel) as it will go for both shoes, make sure they are on straight. Or a leg length discrepancy. Outside of feet and outside toes were going numb within 10 minutes. Second, you may just need to adjust the angle of the cleat that’s coming undone. Then turn the pedal upside down, and try and tighten the bolts more with the shoe in the right position on the pedal. Yes, moving the cleats a small amount can throw things off enough to cause discomfort. Solution: Check Saddle Fore/Aft and cleat position. Play Usually the indicator is moulded onto the edge surface of the cleat, not the bottom. Do I just keep moving the cleat around or just go back to the old shoes? The easiest way is to measure from to the protrusion of the big bone on the inside of your foot near the ball of your foot to the middle of the cleat. It means you won’t need to fiddle with the cleat position on the shoe to get to a comfortable position. Best advice I can give is to get a bike fit. My cleats are currently lined up on the 5 line, but the associate in th My road bike position is perfect so I just used those measurements when I got the Peloton. Dismount, line up the cleats with the pencil marks and tighten fully. Top Posts Try moving your seat forward if you move your cleats far back. it seems to me since this problem was caused by cleat position it could be fixed by cleat position, but Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 3 votes and 5 comments cleat position on the shoe (fore/aft, side to side, and angle) cleat angle to the sole of the shoe (with clear wedges—for me, this was the magic ingredient that made my knee pain go away) shoe inserts Those are the main things that will address knee pain. Most shoes (e. If that doesn’t work, move it back down and then try a bit to the rear. I had my cleat like 4mm off and after a long ride I've noticed pain. Was an immediate difference on long rides. Apr 20, 2011 路 More specifically, this means that the cleat should be placed so that the centre of the 1st MTP joint (base knuckle of the big toe) is positioned over the centre of the pedal axle with crank arm forward and horizontal and shoe in pedal level, as this is the convention for measuring cleat position. give a little hop and look down for the shot, I want to see how duck footed you are). As others have said, Lake and Bont have a bit more movement fore/aft, I also use the mid-foot cycling cleat adapters that the first response linked to. I tried taking out the insole piece and it seems there's a cutout where the cleat attaches, but I can't get to it. This is a massive topic all by itself, and you can find plenty of videos on youtube about fitting. My cleat position used to be very far forward, however I was advised to move them back (by the internet!). Knew numerous skill position players who wore them as well. It can feel really nice to have your weight over the pedals, but this can create issues with your hips at the top of the stroke and also makes you very quad dominant. Corrected the position of the cleat and issue was completely gone. The cleat should be no further forward than half way between those two marks. In this article, we’ll cover the three key elements of how to position your cleats. Mark the position on the outside of your shoes of the middle of the joint at the base of the big and little toes. narrow hips lead to impingement issues so by opening them up you will have a more fluid range of motion. Cleat position - different As an update, I tried my cleat wedges and there was no improvement. I’ll try moving my seat forward to see if it helps. Aside from personal exp, I listen to the trainer road podcast and they usually recommend a bike fit and stretching/strength/core training if your body can't handle small adjustments. Also the guides I've read mention putting them in the midpoint between the balls, not behind. my Sidi) have fixed bolt holes on the shoes anyway, and adjustment comes from the cleats, so this is really "bonus" adjustment for extreme cleat positions. There are very few shoes out there that would allow for an actual mid-foot cleat placement. Posted by u/appleater - 4 votes and 9 comments Basically, with cleats TWO things are important: 1) how far forward and back, and 2) the rotation of the cleat on the shoe. I ended up swapping my cleats back over to the giros with the best setup I could do quickly and the knee pain was gone. If you make a big change like slamming the cleat all the way back you may need to tweak your saddle position. . It has about half an inch worth of space going back/forwards that it can slide, but that Could be a seat height issue. How adjustable is this normally? After a few months I can now adjust my saddle where I want, mess with my cleat position, etc and I'm fine. Moving back will help engage your hamstrings and First time putting cleats on a road shoes. Switching to a new cleat position is likely to cause more problems and potential injury to accommodate a shoe when it should be the other way around. Drop it by 2cm and see how that feels. If you just started using clipless, you will most likely need to dial in your cleat position. then remove the shoe from the pedal after marking the sole with the silhouette of the cleat in case it moves again. Then have the friend mark out the cleat position while your still locked in. Or numbness in left knee and foot could come from your back. They give more direct feedback than cleats with float. Angle the cleats to let your feet sit at their natural angle when clipped in. Moving your cleats back is a whole discussion unto itself (google "Cycling mid foot cleat position). Aug 22, 2024 路 Fore/aft; Medial/lateral position or stance width; Rotation and cleat float; Although the information below refers to 3-bolt road cleats, the same principles can be applied to 2-bolt cleat systems Also you need to make sure that you position the cleat right underneath your shoe otherwise you can seriously damage your ankle and knee. The adjustments to the cleat/pedal axle position and heel angle solved my problems. I'm not interested in that stuff. I have observed a rearward position is conducive to lower RPM/high power efforts, while a more forward position facilitates high RPM/high efficiency pedaling. The cleat/shoe that I bought with the bike doesn't seem like the position can be adjusted much. For set up, I googled roughly how to position the cleats and with maybe 25 miles of test riding they were dialed in perfectly. ) Q angle too small, cleat too far on outside of sole. Saddle position is about front-back (fore-aft) balance. We are here to educate and share about the corset as it comes back into mainstream fashion. I just had a professional fit done and it was really helpful. My cleat position is also a bit different (further back and in, Peloton feels like it has a wide q factor). Oct 28, 2021 路 Though the cleat positioning on your shoes may seem trivial, it often goes one of two ways: never noticing them again or pain. Feb 14, 2023 路 Hip/knee/foot alignment can be modified by moving either the saddle forward or rearward or moving the cleats forward or rearward. Which should itself cause a problem, but I've done 60mile rides like that without pain. However I'm experiencing severe foot pain after a fairly modest ride. the best way to find out the right position is place your feet together and walk forward a few steps and stop. Cleat position is generally recommended such that the ball of the foot (1st metatarsal of the big toe) aligns with the center of the pedal axel Usually it is recommended that the pedal axle is halfway between the first metatarsal and the 5th metatarsal - slightly behind the ball of the foot as a good starting point. The new cleat position meant my knees were tracking straight and in-line with the pedal, thereby stopping the knee issues. Also, moving your cleats all the way forward and pedaling with your toes is awful. Hope that helps. I've found a lot for set up for normal road clears but not much on SPD. Ive been playing around with my cleats recently and felt that moving them forward just a bit has helped my confidence on steep stuff, probably due to dropping my ankles lower off back of the pedals. At a point this cleat can still create knee stress even with the cleat at the absolute 0 position, so listen to what the knees say. I recently got new cleats, and despite my best efforts, the position of the new cleats on my shoes is a bit off. I decided to go back and check the cleat placement for my Look cleats on the peloton. Find ball of foot on side of shoe. Even just sitting on the bike, not pedaling, and this happens. Ask around to find out who’s the best in town. Id just keep experimenting with them until you find something you like, lots of ergonomics seem to factor in with cleat placement. No matter if dh or xc, bad positioned cleats can cause pain to your legs, ankles and feet. Personally, I like to push the cleats as far back as I can as that better engages the quads and hammies and saves the calves a bit as they are the weakest muscle in the cycling kinetic chain. Or just put the cleat all the way back on the shoe, see how it feels, and adjust from there. Oh! My left cleat was always pushed forward on the bottom of the shoe, compared to my right cleat which is slammed back. Just a quick one but over the weekend I was adjusting seat height/seat position forward (and back) bar position to make sure I was getting good extension on pedaling and not pressing down into the hoods from bad reach That went ok,rode ok Cycled in to work today and it felt like I was riding on the nose and not my sit bones. Or get everything from a shop and get them to fit them all for you for a price. You aren’t making this too hard. You have two dimensions to play with and each affects the other. Posted by u/helljumper230 - 1 vote and 1 comment Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Related Woodworking Craft Crafts and DIY forward back. But, for pedalling your cleat position matters too because it not only affects where your feet contact the pedal it moves your feet in relation to your butt. If it still squeaks, remove the cleat and make give it a clean underneath (note the cleat position first with a marker so it goes back in the same place). Things you might want to consider before buying shoes, cleats and pedals are what system to buy, whether you want recessed cleats so you can walk easily (and without putting premature wear on the cleats) in which case you'd probably go for SPD rather than the various systems advertised as 'road' like SPD-SL, look keo et al. Has anyone else seen this? Also, while there is a trend to move your cleats as far back as possible, that won’t be best for everyone. Give your pedal and the cleat a good clean - make sure there's no grit, stones or dirt lodged there. It’s an art to get all the pieces right to resolve your issue. I'm of the opinion that if you notice the float when you're riding then you 100% need it there. Switched to the new ones about three weeks ago. I’d say it was money well spent. Anyway, I started developing pains in my calfs that felt like a muscle pull. For the cleats I’m considering using 2x4s Further back? I moved them further up, to what seems to be the position that feels most natural to clip in from (I always struggle to find the cleat when I put my foot on the pedal). All you need is a vernier caliper. That said, it could be a lot of things. Hi all, I've just started using clipless pedals on my bike and I'm looking for some advice on how far back/ forward the cleats should be on the… Reason is i'm having issues with my left ITBS which i trace back to having my seat too high after switching to shorter cranks (175 to 165mm) and not changing cleat position or setback. This may not be the most 'powerful' spot to have the cleat, but it should take some pressure off the ball of your foot. also try widening the cleat position. The cleat is recessed, but it seems like the clear won’t be securely attached to the cabinet - I plan on using pocket screws roughly where I marked with black lines. Then make sure the cleat is centered on that line. Ball of foot cleat position isn't the optimal position for everyone. Some people are sensitive to small changes. Different brands of shoes have nuts in the sole in different positions, Eg Fizik have them far forward, Shimano have them far back. As to 1), you want the axle of the pedal right underneath the ball of your foot. I had a similar issue recently and only just solved it after realizing my right cleat was too far forward. " If something was worse, the accurate measurements I had taken would allow me to return back to "where I was" and try something else. Sure enough, they were off, too. We cover Road, MTB, Time Trial, or Triathlon. A long ride led to some intense medical knee pain (later diagnosed as pes anserine bursitis) that has not resolved despite trying everything - time off from the bike, putting my old shoes/cleats back on, getting bike fitted, lots of PT, etc. Moving my cleats further back helped with this, although that may not suit sprinters or anyone that needs max acceleration. If it's the hip, then your saddle might be too high. Fitters, cyclists, bike shops, and bike manufacturers are all welcome. I recently slammed the left cleat towards the back of the shoe and it's actually removed the inner knee pain (as described above) on my left knee. For the hanging mechanism I plan to use French cleats but because if the irregular shape the clear won’t be at the top of the cabinet. Will look to adjust the cleats and loosen the straps and see how it goes. (see picture), the "button" is flush with the cleat, but not flush with the shoe sole making things wobbly. the screw positions will be different on every pair of shoes so you can't judge anything from looking at that. It could be cleat position, but it could also be the shoe. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and took 30+ minutes to get the cleat placement just right. The bike fit would get your saddle height, lay back and cleats in roughly the correct position might need minor adjustments when out on the road versus the trainer (usually a mm or two). The feet transfer power through the cleat apparatus and our connection to the pedal via the shoe is the single most important piece of the bike fitting puzzle. cabbb fba pqs opniaa qdl rrglzmh prgifo bsukp hpksi vwxrl aidyc rrx fxta cykqup olhouy